Starch Gelatin

This is a flexible sheet, potato starch+gelatin recipe that makes one 6-inch x 9-inch sheet (the recipe can be scaled up – we’ve made 4 feet x 4 feet sheets with these ratios)

Ingredients

1. Water (60mL)

2. Gelatin (6g)

3. Glycerin (6g, (3g makes a stiffer sheet)

4. Potato Starch (6g)

5. Shallow tray for drying (corrugated plastic works very well, which can be cut to the desired size with 1-inch edges folded up to create a tray)

Process

1. Combine dry ingredients in a beaker

2. Add glycerin and water to the beaker.

3. Mix all ingredients well in a small beaker until incorporated.

4. Place on the hot plate and stir. Continue stirring until mixture begins to turn whitish and thickens slightly, like a mucus consistency

5. Carefully pour the liquid out into your tray

6. Quickly tilt the tray to make sure the liquid reaches all corners; place it on a heat-proof surface

Notes

- Overheating or rapid stirring will cause bubbles to form that will impact your results

- Depending on temperature and humidity, bioplastic will take 4-7 days to cure before you peel it off the sheet. Don’t let it sit longer than a week before peeling it off the tray

- The sheet needs to be slightly rough to constrain the bioplastic – too smooth (don’t use glass or non-stick!) and the bioplastic will slip off of it and deform; too harsh and it will be hard to remove

- This recipe can be used as a base to create composites: consider adding dyes, fibers, paper scraps, etc.

Video Link: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879552472/28260f3a15

Materials Library code: ST-0001

Metabolism: Created

Image Credit: Kevin Tang ’22 ID

Gelatin

Ingredients

1. Water (240mL)

2. Gelatin (48g)

3. Glycerin (96g)

Process

1. Dissolve all ingredients in water.

2. Place the mixture over the stove and turn the heat on

3. Keep turning up the heat until the mixture boils.

4. Pour/spread the mixture on a non-stick surface.

5. Air dry for one week.

Notes

- Shrinks in size when fully dry.

- Self-forms or deforms during the drying stage

Form possibility: Mold, Sheet

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: GE-0001

Agar

Ingredients

1. Water (120mL)

2. Agar (1.5g)

3. Glycerin (1.51g)

Process

1. Mix agar and glycerin with water and stir them until they dissolve.

2. Heat the mixture to just below boiling.

3. Pour liquid into a mold or flat surface. Let dry for 1-2 days

Form Possibility: Mold, Sheet, Extrude

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library Code: AG-0001

Eggshell-Coffee

Ingredients

1. Eggshell (15g)

2. Water (40mL)

3. Gelatine (3g)

4. Coffee ground (7g)

5. Glycerol (3g)

6. Ground orange peel (6g)

Process

1. Mix agar and glycerin with water and stir them until they dissolve.

2. Heat the mixture to just below boiling.

3. Poor liquid into a mold or flat surface. Let dry for 1-2 days

Form Possibility: Mold, Sheet, Extrude

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library Code: ES-0007

Recipe by: Joy Lee (jlee@risd.edu) & Ty Ko (bko@risd.edu)

Starch

Ingredients

1. Beer (60mL)

2. Potato starch (6g)

3. Gelatin (6g)

4. Glycerin (6ml)

Process

1. Mix all ingredients in a small pot

2. Heat at medium, stirring continuously

3. Continue stirring until the mixture begins to turn white and thickens.

4. Turn off the stove and carefully pour the liquid into the mold.

5. Quickly tilt the tray to reach all corners and place it on a heatproof surface

Metabolism: Created

Form possibility: Sheet

Materials Library code: ST-0029

Sugar

Ingredients

1. Water (31 mL)

2. Icing sugar (227g)

3. Tragacanth gum (14g)

Process

1. Mix all ingredients thoroughly.

2. Pour the mixture into a mold and press.

3. Let dry for 1-2 days.

Notes

- It won't be thoroughly dried if the thickness in a mold is high.

- Don't cover the mold after pressing so it can dry.

Metabolism: Created

Form possibility: Mold

Materials Library code: SU-0003

Milk

Ingredients

1. Skim Milk (300g)

2. 5% Vinegar (15g)

3. Any alcohol (option: ethanol, vodka)

Process

1. Pour skim milk and vinegar (acetic acid) into a pot. Instead of vinegar, the juice of rotten lemon works too.

2. Set it to low heat for about 5 minutes and stir if necessary. You will separate at the beginning (curd is formed).

3. Strain the mixture to separate casein protein (white solid) and whey protein (liquid).

4. While casein is strained in a strainer, wash the casein in warm water.

5. rewash it in ethanol (alcohol). Vodka works too.

6. Put the warm casein in the mold or a pan. You can mold it with your hands, but it may be hot.

7. OR repeat steps 4 and 5 as often as you like, and then do step 6. Processes in steps 4-5 are called purification. It makes the bioplastic more stable and easy to sculpt. The purification process is optional. You could directly put the strained casein in the mold after step 3.

Form possibility: Mold, Sheet, Extrude

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: MI-0004

Recipe Credit: Rose Kim ID '2

Kombucha

Ingredients

1. Water (7 cups)

2. Black tea (4 bags)

3. Sugar (1 cup)

4. Kombucha (1/2 cup - unflavoured, unpasteurized (raw) commercial from the grocery store)

Process

1. Bring water to a boil

2. Add black tea bags

3. Let steep for about 10 minutes

4. As the boiling tea bags and water cool down, Add sugar (while still warm to dissolve better)

5. Stir until all sugar is dissolved

6. Let the tea cool down till it is just warm

7. Add one fresh bottle of raw, unfiltered and unflavored kombucha

8. Pour the tea into a pouring container with a lid, cover, and pop open one corner of the lid to let some air in

9. Place under a heating mat to quicken the process

Metabolism: Natural

Form possibility: Mold, Sheet, Extrude

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c

Materials Library code: KB-0001

Video Tutorial Series

View the three how-to videos below, with Sarah Garrison ('20 MID) taking you through the kombucha leather-making process.

Part 1 - Below are details on how to brew kombucha and set it up to grow a SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast), which you will harvest later for the bio-leather. The SCOBY will grow to the dimensions of your liquid’s surface, so keep that in mind when selecting a glass pan/container to grow in. The SCOBY will need time to grow thick enough to harvest, so plan on waiting at least 6 weeks before you can have your first finished sheet of bio-leather.

1A- https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c/privacy

1B - https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c/privacy

1C - https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c/privacy

Part 2 - Here’s how to harvest a SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast), condition it, and prepare it for your projects.

2A - https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c/privacy

2B - https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c/privacy

2C - https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879620204/787110203c/privacy

Mycelium

Ingredients

1. Mycelium starter (grow. bio) (250 ml)

2. Flour (60 g)

3. Water (700 ml)

4. Flax (dry ~0.9 lbs)

Process

1. Mix flour and water and stir for 1 min.

2. Pour the flour and water into an autoclavable bag with base material and shake for 1 min.

3. Autoclave mixture.

4. Add mycelium starter to the autoclaved mixture in the incubation bag. Mix well.

5. Fold the top of the bag over several times and secure it shut, leaving the filter panel free.

6. Leave for 4-5 days in a warm, shaded (but not completely dark) place until mycelium "frosts" ( the outside appears white).

7. Contents of the bag must then be pulled apart and remixed with an additional 60 g. of flour, then placed in sterile molds.

8. Molds must allow for ventilation - usually accomplished by making tiny holes 1" apart in plastic wrap on the surface.

9. Allow 4-5 days of growth until "frosted." Dry until 30% of the original weight. Bake the final piece at 200F for 2 hours.

Notes

- Everything must be kept sterile - wear gloves, and clean and dry all surfaces and containers with alcohol

- Composites must be grown at room temperature and with daily light, though not in direct sunlight

Form possibility: Mold

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: MY-0002

Wood Ash

Ingredients

1. Water (150 mL)

2. Alginate (12 g)

3. Wood Ash (100 g)

4. Glycerin (8 mL)

5. Coffee grounds (15g)

Process

1. Mix all ingredients well except wood ash

2. Heat at medium, stirring continuously

3. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens slightly

4. Put the material in a syringe 5. Make the shape by extruding the material

Form possibility: Mold, Extrude

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: WA-0003

Albumen

Ingredients

1. Egg white powder (50g)

2. Hydrogel (150g - before dehydrating)

3. Glycerin (25ml)

Process

1. Dry 150 g hydrogel at low temperature (165F) for 2 hours

2. Add the dehydrated gel with 50g of egg white powder and mix at low speed for 5 minutes.

3. Add 25 ml of Glycerin to the mixture and start mixing at high speed

4. Keep mixing until the mixture is thickened (20 mins)

5. Pour the mixture into a mold 5. Dry at low temperature (140F) for 7 hours

Notes

- recommended to use wax paper before pouring the mixture into a mold

- Dremel can be used for carving, etc. (like a foam)

Form possibility: Mold

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: AL-0004

Banana Peel

Ingredients

1. Whole banana peel (1 banana, broken to fit press mold)

Process

1. Dehydrate 1 banana peel for 10 hours in the dehydrator

2. Place in hydraulic press mold and cut into pieces if necessary only to fit press mold.

3. Press and then dehydrate again if there is too much residual moisture.

Form possibility: Mold, Sheet

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: BP-0001

Mussel Shell

Ingredients

1. Sodium Alginate (5g)

2. Mussel Shells (40g)

3. Water (22 ml)

Process

1. Wash mussel shells and remove waste.

2. Crush shells with a hammer into small pieces.

3. Grind pieces into a powder using a coffee grinder.

4. Combine shell powder, water, and alginate and mix thoroughly.

5. Spoon into the mold or roll into a sheet and let harden (2-3 days).

6. Flip the object as it dries to avoid warping; utilize the hydraulic press to flatten it.

Notes

- Hydraulic press will help prevent breakage when drying.

Form possibility: Mold

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: SA-0003

Smooth-on Alginate

Ingredients

1. Alginate (60g)

2. Water (150 mL)

3. Flax Fiber (20g)

4. Water (10 mL)

5. Hydrated Lime Powder (10g)

6. Starch (20g)

7. Gelatin (10g)

8. Glycerin (5g)

9. Water (150 mL)

Process

1. Mix smooth-on alginate with lukewarm water until you have a thick consistency

2. Apply a thick layer to your chosen positive form with a spoon or brush

3. Mix plant fibers with water & hydrated lime powder

4. Lay them over top of thick alginate (before the alginate has cured, allowing for mechanical bond)

5. Mix 1 part glycerin, 2 parts gelatin, 3 parts water, and 4 parts starch over heat until gloopy

6. Pour this solution over the whole mold

7. Use once the outer shell has hardened, but while alginate is still soft (within 5 days)

Form possibility: Mold

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: ST-0004

Recipe by: Gresh Chapman ID'25

Cork Alternative

Ingredients

1. Coconut Coir (33.33g)

2. Coffee Grounds (20.8g)

3. Walnut Shells (16.67g)

4. Sawdust (12.5g)

5. Water (120 mL)

6. Arrowroot Starch (15g)

7. Gelatin Powder (10g)

8. Glycerin (8g)

Process

1. Mix dry ingredients in a small bowl

2. In a small pot, on medium heat, mix the wet ingredients

3. Slowly stir continuously until the mixture forms a homogenous glue-like consistency

4. Pour the mixture into the bowl with the dry ingredients and mix until you form a thick paste

5. Spread the mixture into a 6" x 6" x 1' in a mold lined with parchment or wax paper on the bottom (sides not needed)

6. After 1 hour, compress the congealed material down.

7. Next, after 12 hours, take the material out of the mold, peel the paper off, and let the other side dry, facing down

8. Flip every 12 hours for 6-7 hours.

Notes

- If you do not use parchment or wax paper, you will not be able to quickly get the material out of the mold without breaking

- If you do not flip the material every 12 hours, the material will warp during the drying process

Form possibility: Mold

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: ST-0003

Recipe by: John Duck ID'24

Yogurt

Ingredients

1. Greek Yogurt (30g)

2. Glycerin (1.5g)

3. Gelatin (3g)

4. Oats (15g)

Process

1. Blend the oats into a fine powder.

2. Mix the oat powder with the Greek yogurt

3. Add the gelatin and glycerin on heat for 10 minutes

4. Mold into whatever shape you want.

5. Let it dry

Notes

- It takes 2-3 days to dry completely.

Form possibility: Mold

Metabolism: Created

Materials Library code: MI-0005

Recipe by: Sreenidhi Anand Nichani ID'25

2D: Sheet

Fabrication Strategy: This strategy helps prepare flat sheets of material, which can be cut into strips for use as yarn, folded into 3D structures, or substituted for fabric in cut-and-sew applications.

Biomaterial sheets are commonly made by pouring liquid into a flat textured tray-like mold. The mold needs to be slightly rough to constrain the bioplastic – too smooth and the bioplastic will slip off of it and deform; too harsh and difficult to remove (don’t use glass or non-stick surfaces!)

Pouring your sheet material: Follow any liquid biomaterial recipe (e.g., the first image on this grid: Starch Gelatin 666 base recipe). Create or pour this liquid onto a tray-like mold. A quick tip is to tilt the tray to ensure the liquid reaches all corners and place it on a. heat-proof surface to dry.

Drying your sheet: Depending on temperature and humidity, bioplastic will take 4-7 days to cure before you peel it off the sheet. Don’t let it sit for a week before peeling off the tray.

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/879552472/28260f3a15

More Coming soon!

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

2D: Laser Cut

Fabrication Strategy:

This method enables laser cutting of various biomaterials using the CoWorks laser cutters. The recommended settings are power = 60%, speed = 70%, and PPI = 250, although adjustments may be needed based on material thickness. Consistent material thickness is crucial for an even cut. This technique is beneficial for intricate designs or repetitive reductions of biomaterial. Further possibilities include adding scoring lines for 3D shapes, cutting strips for yarn, or creating various shapes.

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/879565754

Laser Cutting steps:

1. Begin by creating your design on Illustrator and following traditional laser cutting language.

2. Place your biomaterial sheet flat on scrap material. Ensure your sheet is flat and as uniform in thickness as possible for the highest accuracy.

3. Close the bed and check that your design fits on your biomaterial sheet.

4. The settings used for this particular material were red > vector > power = 60%, speed = 70%, PPI = 250.

5. Click print and watch the material: it should not burn, melt, or cause a flame.

6. Peel and remove your designs.

7. Example cut on a more brittle eggshell bioplastic.

8. Alternatively, brittle materials can be rehydrated slightly for an easier and safer cut.

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

2.5D: Scoring + Folding

Fabrication Strategy:

This strategy introduces additional dimensionality to a flat biomaterial sheet. While any origami technique can be applied, it's essential to hold and slightly heat the material in a folded position to maintain these folds.

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/879568618?share=copy

Scoring + Folding steps:

1. Score your material gently with a dull blade. Alternatively, score your material by using the engraving setting on a laser cutter (Follow regular 2D: laser cutting technique on this grid)

2. Place in clamps. For more permanency, consider placing the biomaterial in a heated environment.

3. Unfolding process: Notice how the biomaterial unfolds to return to its original state. Add heat for more permanency.

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

3D: Manual Extrusion

Fabrication Strategy: This strategy introduces dimensionality to a liquid biomaterial recipe by manually extruding it and adding vertical height. This can be useful in creating yarns or filaments for textile applications or 3D forms. This is a good fabrication strategy in preparation for extruding the material using a 3D printer or Potterbot. A successful manual extrusion that requires about 25-30 pounds indicates that the recipe may be successful on the potterbot machine, which is available by booking at the Nature Lab. Ensure that the nozzle of the manual extrusion mimics that of the intended execution on the Potterbot machine.

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/879570219

Manual Extrusion steps:

1. Cook your biomaterial liquid on medium heat and stir until the solution thickens.

5. Take off the heat and stir until it reaches a toothpaste-like consistency.

6. Transfer into a syringe or extrusion mechanism.

7. Attempt extrusion and testing. (The pressure it takes to extrude materials on 3D extruding printers or potterbots needs to be between 25 and 30 pounds; you can measure this by applying pressure to extrude the material on a weighing scale.)

8. Work quickly to avoid curing or further thickening of the material.

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

3D: Printing (Ultimaker)

Fabrication Strategy:

3D printing biomaterials allow for computational, automated, and controlled fabrication. In 3D printing biomaterials, the critical factor is maintaining a precise printing speed and ensuring the material's liquid viscosity resembles toothpaste to achieve optimal layering and structure in the final product.

This is a machine that requires a highly refined recipe. Before attempting this one, test the recipe using the 3D: Manual extrusion & 3D: Extrusion (Potterbot) fabrication techniques!

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/879572632

3D printing with the Ultimaker - steps:

1. Mix your biomaterial paste to a toothpaste-like consistency

2. Cut the necessary length of tubing

3. Place all material within the printing syringe

4. Connect the syringe nozzle to the tube

5. Manually extrude the material a decent amount through the tube

6. Fix the test tube onto the holder and slide the push mechanism into its shelf

7. If the syringe is not fitting - remove the black rod and manually adjust the white stage

8. Place a piece of paper/ non-stick solution to the build plate and tape it down

9. Turn on power! (Switch is behind the printer)

10. Go to maintenance: build plate, continue

11. Wait for the printer to reset its height

12. Spin the dial to readjust its height

13. Tighten or loosen the screws to make the plate a consistent height

14. Tightening the screws essentially makes the plate move down (as it uses a spring mechanism)

15. Place a piece of paper under the nozzle and ensure that the paper can move with as little resistance as possible

16. Place a catch cloth or paper towel to catch any residue as the printer extrudes outside the actual piece.

-- Now we are ready to print! --

17. SD CARD - print - Purge fast

18. Wait for the extrusion to go through the majority of the tube and the main nozzle

19. Wait for the printer to complete the task and patiently wait for your material to extrude.

20. Your pattern should begin to extrude and gain height

21. Remove your piece from the plate. Turn off the machine, remove the syringe and tubing from the printer, and clean up the workstation.

22. Leave your Biomaterial print to finish drying. This should take 1-2 days and is a process for water to evaporate

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

3D: Mold Making

Fabrication Strategy: Forming biomaterial using a mold involves laser cutting, 3D printing, or buying an off-the-shelf mold with the desired end shape. It is suggested that you design your molds with as much draft angle as possible to reduce friction and allow for an easy release of your material. An example might be designing 1 degree for every 25mm cavity depth. It is also advised to add some release agents, like petroleum jelly, to aid with the easy release of the material. Design multiple molds that foster easy release for more complex forms and combine the pieces using the 3D: Welding fabrication strategy from this grid. When putting Biomaterials into molds, it is important to allow for ventilation in order for air to enter and for water to be released. To prevent warping during drying, the mold can be pressed in place using a hydraulic press or heavy books.

Once the mold is prepared, it is set up, and a biomaterial, such as mycelium, is carefully introduced into the mold, creating a structured and shaped form. This process allows precise control of the biomaterial's final shape and dimensions.

Video summary using mycelium and a laser-cut mold: https://vimeo.com/888134061

More Coming soon!

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

3D: Extrusion (Potterbot)

Fabrication Strategy:

The Potterbot for biomaterial extrusion involves loading a syringe with the prepared biomaterial, ensuring it has the optimal consistency for printing. The extrusion is performed under controlled pressure, and the biomaterial is carefully layered to form three-dimensional structures. Prepare for this fabrication technique by creating or scanning a 3D model. This method provides a versatile approach to creating intricate designs and allows for precise control over the final Biomaterial form.

Since most biomaterials shrink in size when they dry, prepare to print your biomaterial on a fabric surface to avoid cracking during the drying process. Depending on your print size, drying can be done in a freeze dryer, dehydrator, or on a warm sunny windowsill.

Contact biomaterials@risd.edu to book a consultation time before using the Potterbot. Before approaching this fabrication technique, consider whether your final form can be achieved by using 3D: Mold making, 2.5D: folding, or other fabrication techniques within this grid.

Video summary: https://vimeo.com/888141304

Extrusion Steps:

Tube Loading

Step One: Fill a syringe with the prepared biomaterial to load into the tube. Extrude the biomaterial manually on a scale. The pressure it takes to extrude needs to be between 25 and 30 pounds, and the clay should have a slightly sticky texture - this is optimal for printing with the PotterBot.

Step Two: Once you have the biomaterial recipie at the correct consistency, roll it into spheres that fit into your hand. Press the spheres one on top of the other, pressing down with the palm of your hand. Smooth out the top of the tube after each sphere to ensure minimal air pockets.

Step Three: Fill the tube and leave about three inches of space at the bottom.

Step Four: You also need about two inches of space on the top. Dig out your biomaterial paste just past the holes around the tube. You are now ready to assemble.

Assembly

Step One: Insert the nozzle on the end of the tube with approximately two inches of negative space. Put the screws in - you must alternate sides when putting in the screws. Put in two on one side and then rotate to the other side. Do not overly tighten the screws; they do not need to be tight, just fully inserted.

Step Two: Once the nozzle is fully installed, flip the tube to the other side. The rod will fit into the black attachment, align the holes, and screw them in - same as step one. You will have to use the drill with the provided attachment to reverse the rod and get the holes to align. Drill slowly, and be sure not to reverse the rod outside of the motor.

Step Three: Place the silver cover over the rod, screwing it in on either side. Note: only two screws for this are provided, and they must be screwed in diagonally from one another.

Step Four: Place the fully assembled extruder into the stand and tighten the strap. Note: you will need to have the strap placed close to the nozzle so it does not crash into the print bed.

Step Five: Flip the switch located on the back of the stand. Plug in the black cord to the motor. A green light will appear when it is on. You are now ready to prepare for print.

Prepare for Print

Step One: On your computer, connect to 3DP-10; the password is 12345678. Type in the IP address 192.168.42.14. The web browser interface will appear once you have typed in the IP address. The green button on the top left will let you know you are connected to the PotterBot.

Step Two: From the menu on the left, select Jobs Files. Find the prime G-code and start a prime. Keep priming until a steady flow of clay is extruding.

Step Three: Prepare a surface to print on (such as a bat, board, or fabric swatch) and place it on the print bed. If you want your piece to have a base, roll out a slab onto the surface. If not, then smear some material on the surface to ensure adhesion. Press four small pieces of material around the print surface so that it does not move during the print.

Step 4: Return to the Jobs Files and select Print Start Location Standard to set the Z height. When the Print Start Location Standard is started, the PotterBot will move to the center of the print bed. Once it stops moving, hold the tube and unlock the straps to adjust the height. Use caution - the tube will be heavy. The ideal height of the tube will allow a fettling knife to fit between the tip of the nozzle and the print surface. You are now ready to print.

Print

Step One: Once you have the correct Z height, upload your G-code file to the web browser interface under the Jobs tab and select it to print.

Step Two: Print! On the web browser interface, you can monitor and control your print's speed and extrusion rate as it is in progress. Note: once the print has finished, there is no need to reset the Z - as long as you use a print surface (a bat or board) that is the same thickness as the one you used in your initial print.

Disassembly

Step One: Once you have finished printing, run the retract G-code (image 31) for approximately 20 seconds to relieve the pressure on the tube. Select the emergency stop button when you are done retracting. Note: if you did not finish the tube and plan to finish printing later, you must still retract it - the pressure will push the water in the material to the bottom of the tube, making it unfit for printing. Run the prime G-code when you resume printing.

Step Two: Remove the extruder from the stand by unplugging the black cord and unlocking the straps.

Step Three: Remove the silver cover and use the drill to reverse the rod slowly. Note: keep material off the rod once it is exposed and avoid touching it. Check that the rod is properly greased regularly.

Step Four: Unscrew the attachments on each end of the tube - starting with the motor and then the nozzle.

Step Five: Place the motor and rod attachment on a clean surface. Use the silver cover to push the nozzle attachment from the tube.

Step Six: Clean the biomaterial residue from all of the equipment and organize it.

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

3D: Welding and Forming

Fabrication Strategy:

This strategy forms 3D shapes from flat sheets by carefully guiding a heated tool (e.g., a soldering iron) or water along the material, allowing it to melt, rehydrate, and reform into the desired structure. This method offers a versatile way to add dimension to initially flat biomaterial, enabling the creation of intricate designs or customized shapes through controlled heat or water application.

Video summary using heat welding: https://vimeo.com/879912564

Welding and Forming Steps:

- Cut and score a net for a 3d object on a flat bioplastic

- Use a soldering iron or concentrated heat source like a soldering iron to melt the biomaterial so it can act as an adhesive. Be very cautious while using heat tools, and wear eye and hand protection while working on intricate details using this method. This melting method can also be used to engrave on thicker materials or to create negative cutouts on thinner materials.

- You can also apply water to rehydrate the material for water-based recipes. When rehydrated, the biomaterial turns sticky/tacky and can be adhered to. Place a weight or hold the connection to allow the biomaterial to dry in your desired configuration. When all the water is released, the material will adhere to itself. It is also possible to rehydrate the entire sheet in water and drape it over a scaffold to form it.

Biostructures - spatial design strategies for biomaterials

Black Walnut

Dye Material: Black walnuts (1 black walnut husk per 25g of fiber in a net bag, cover with water, simmer for 1-2 hours)

Scoured: Yes

Cotton: Neutral detergent ≈ 1% w.o.f., soda ash ≈ 1% w.o.f (solution should be at pH 8-9). Boil for 1-2 hours.

Wool + Silk: Neutral detergent ≈ 1% w.o.f. Heat to ≈60°C/140°F for 1 hour.

Pre-Soaked: Yes (small amount of neutral detergent and enough water to immerse textiles, heated until thoroughly wet)

Mordant: Alum. Not necessary for silk or wool.

Post-Mordant: Iron sulfate to “sadden” the color.

Process:

1. Leave walnut husks in the dye bath and cool to room temperature.

2. Place textiles in the bath for 1-3 hours for tan and light brown shades. Stir occasionally. For deep brown shades, leave textiles in the dye bath overnight.

3. If using, apply post-mordant immediately after dyeing.

4. Wash dyed textiles thoroughly.

Notes:

- w.o.f. = weight of fabric before beginning the dyeing process.

Turmeric

Dye Material: Turmeric Powder (3 tbsp turmeric powder, 3 cups water, simmer 1 hour)

Scoured: Yes (washed in a washing machine)

Pre Soaked: Yes (1:4 vinegar: water, fibers simmer for 1 hour, wrung out but not rinsed before dye bath).

Mordant: No

Process:

1. Simmer pre-soaked fibers in the dye bath for 1 hour. Stir occasionally.

2. Rest in the dye bath overnight.

3. Wash thoroughly.

Notes:

- Apply the dye bath using a paintbrush on the watercolor paper. Allow to dry between each layer of dye.

- Turmeric is a dye that will fade over time. It is pH sensitive, so always wash with a neutral soap. Textiles dyed with turmeric can always be re-dyed.

Pomegranate Rinds

Dye Material: Pomegranate rinds (2 pomegranate rinds, 3 cups water, simmer 1 hour)

Scoured: Yes (washed in a washing machine)

Pre Soaked: Yes (1:4, vinegar:water, fibers simmer for 1 hour, wrung out but not rinsed before dye bath).

Mordant: No

Process:

1. Simmer pre-soaked fibers in the dye bath for 1 hour. Stir occasionally.

2. Rest in the dye bath overnight.

3. Wash thoroughly.

Notes:

- Apply the dye bath using a paintbrush on the watercolor paper. Allow to dry between each layer of dye.

Red Onion

Dye Material: Red Onion Skins (2 Cups Red Skins, 3 cups water, simmer 1 hour)

Scoured: Yes (washed in a washing machine)

Pre Soaked: Yes (Fibers simmer in Mordant bath for 40 mins and rinsed before dye bath)

Mordant: Yes, 4g of alum

Process:

1. Simmer pre-soaked fibers in dye bath for 1 hour

2. Rest in dye bath for 1 hour

3. Wash thoroughly

Avocado

Dye Material: Avocado Pits and Skins (4 avocado pits and skins, 2 cups water, simmer 1 hour)

Scoured: Yes (washed in washing machine)

Pre Soaked: Yes (1:4 vinegar:water, fibers simmer for 1 hour, wrung out but not rinsed before dye bath)

Mordant: No

Process:

1. Simmer pre-soaked fibers in dye bath for 1 hour

2. rest in dye bath overnight

3. wash thoroughly

Yellow Onion

Dye Material: Yellow Onion Skins (2 Cups Onion Skins, 3 cups water, simmer 1 hour)

Scoured: Yes (washed in a washing machine)

Pre Soaked: Yes (1:4 vinegar:water, fibers simmer for 1 hour, wrung out but not rinsed before dye bath)

Mordant: No

Process:

1. Simmer pre-soaked fibers in dye bath for 1 hour

2. Rest in dye bath overnight

3. Wash thoroughly

Beets

Dye Material: Beet Root (4 beets, 4 cups water, simmer 1 hour)

Scoured: Yes (washed in a washing machine)

Pre Soaked: No

Mordant: Yes (8% of dry fiber weight alum, 7% of dry fiber weight cream of tartar, fibers simmered for 1 hour, rinsed before dyebath)

Process:

1. Simmer mordanted fibers in dye bath for 1 hour

2. Rest in dye bath overnight

3. Wash thoroughly